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Author Topic: Narrow wide chainring  (Read 4883 times)

David Kuehnen

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Narrow wide chainring
« on: May 27, 2014, 10:48:43 PM »
I have run a Race Face Narrow chainring for 4 laps at TRTP with zero problems.  No chain guide and with a non-clutch 9 speed RD, the chain stays on the chain ring like magic.

David Kuehnen, PE

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Raleighguy29

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2014, 10:54:30 PM »
I think I might need to get one for ss conversion. Been dropping the chain off the crank here lately.


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Ed Strobel

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2014, 11:33:29 PM »
I have one from Wolf Tooth. No drops with at least 100 miles at BCSP. Same as David K, no guide or clutch derailleur on a 9 speed.

Interesting thing is the wide teeth still have the anodizing, and it is rubbing off of the narrow ones.

Dave G.

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2014, 08:59:21 AM »
I think I might need to get one for ss conversion. Been dropping the chain off the crank here lately.


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While you can run a NW ring in SS mode, it isn't necessary unless you switch back and forth between SS and geared.  If you maintain proper chain tension and chainline, your chain shouldn't hop off the ring (unless you are using a ramped and pinned chainring, then chainline is extremely critical).
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Dave G.

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2014, 09:07:16 AM »
I have run a Race Face Narrow chainring for 4 laps at TRTP with zero problems.  No chain guide and with a non-clutch 9 speed RD, the chain stays on the chain ring like magic.

I've run the RaceFace NW on both my bikes with SRAM Type 2 rear derailleurs, ridden BCSP pretty hard, and had no chain issues!  I'm really happy how it has worked out.  I used to drop alot of chains when I ran 1x with old style x9 and a SS ring.
 
In addition, SRAM has an x7 Type2 as well as the x9, so there is a relatively inexpensive way to go 1x.  x7 Type 2 runs about $60 on eBay, and any brand NW will run about $35-$45 retail.  Well worth the money just in less hassle.
David Gardner
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David Kuehnen

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2014, 09:20:17 AM »
My Race Face 34t NW was $38.   Plus it comes in a good variety of colors. 


This is a major leap forward from using a non-ramped chagrining with a Paul components Chain Keeper.  That system worked, but you had to have the Chain Keeper well adjusted with just the right amount of clearance..  The NW system seems to be pretty much idiot proof.
David Kuehnen, PE

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lweilenman

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2014, 01:07:12 PM »
I've been running a race face nw  for a few weeks and a clutched slx derailleur and haven't had any problems or noise either it's so quiet.

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Miller1651

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #7 on: June 04, 2014, 10:18:07 PM »
I've been looking into this for a few days now. I never really leave the middle chainring. Does this NW system just replace the three that are already there?


Any idea how much chain needs to be removed...if any?

Ed Strobel

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #8 on: June 04, 2014, 11:45:26 PM »
With the NW ring you have just that one.

I took the extra links out of the chain.
If you have rear suspension, make sure you disconnect the shock and cycle through to find the spot where the chain is tightest. If you make the length at that point you won't bend the rear derailleur hanger and/or the derailleur. Have the chain on the biggest rear cog plus two links is the method I have been using.
Others may do something different.

David Kuehnen

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #9 on: June 05, 2014, 08:21:54 AM »
Miller, you may want to go with a NW single that is a few teeth smaller than your current middle chainring. 


If you have a 32t middle ring, a 30t NW will offset the loss of your small front chainring in that it will make lower the ratio in your lowest gear.  The flip side is that it will also lower the ration of your highest gear.


Ed is correct on the chain length method.
David Kuehnen, PE

2019

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TRTP.     - 8 hr

DeepVI

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2014, 10:26:42 AM »
I've been looking into this for a few days now. I never really leave the middle chainring. Does this NW system just replace the three that are already there?

Any idea how much chain needs to be removed...if any?

Ditch them rings!  I'm running a 34T Wolf Tooth N/W on my long travel(180mm) Scratch w/ a 11-36 cassette.  All the climbs at BCSP are doable, but a bit of a grunt.  Took my HT there last weekend that has a 36T RF ring, also w/ a 11-36 cassette.  The climbs were still a bit of a grunt, but not as bad as I was imagining.  I've also done roadie rides on my HT w/ this set up(have to shed that winter weight somehow).  I can hang with a group pace up to about 21mph, then I start to spin out.  Looking at gear ratio's is all well and good, but that's the real world application I've found out.

Agree with what Ed stated.  Don't necessarily have to disconnect your shock, letting all the air out to cycle through your suspension will be fine.
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Ed Strobel

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #11 on: June 05, 2014, 03:49:20 PM »
Oh, yeah, air shocks!  Coil shocks are what I have and put that method out there forgetting about folks who can use air shocks.

Miller1651

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #12 on: June 05, 2014, 04:27:56 PM »
Cool, thanks for the info guys.
I'm thinking I'll go with a 32 or 34t, have to count when I get home. As for the chain, the bike is an '06, and it has the original chain, so I will probably order a new one...should I just get a decent 1x9 chain?


Did you guys need to install the shims or buy new bolts? I've read yes and no regarding that.

David Kuehnen

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #13 on: June 05, 2014, 04:50:18 PM »
I went with new bolts.    A new chain is a good idea was well. 
David Kuehnen, PE

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DeepVI

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Re: Narrow wide chainring
« Reply #14 on: June 05, 2014, 06:30:38 PM »
Cool, thanks for the info guys.
I'm thinking I'll go with a 32 or 34t, have to count when I get home. As for the chain, the bike is an '06, and it has the original chain, so I will probably order a new one...should I just get a decent 1x9 chain?


Did you guys need to install the shims or buy new bolts? I've read yes and no regarding that.


You also might be in for a new cassette.  Chains and cassette's wear together.  If you replace your chain regularly, then you can go through a few before replacing the cassette.  Regularly is a bit subjective, depends on miles, conditions, etc.  However, if you've been on the same drivetrain for 8 years(yikes!), then I'd replace, chain, cassette and possibly the RD pulleys.  Check the teeth on your cassette and pulleys.  If they look like shark fins, then you're better off replacing them.  You could possibly get away with not replacing your cassette and not have any shifting problems immediately, however an old cassette will prematurely wear out your new chain.  Bolts are kind of up to you, if they work and aren't too corroded, then have at it.  Even if the "nut" portion of the bolts is bottoming out, I've taken a dremel to them to make them work, just don't get too crazy.  After you've installed your fancy new N/W chainring, check the torque after a few rides.  Chainring bolts have a nasty habit of loosening up after a bit.
2012 Trek Scratch
2012 Transition TransAM
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