During my last lap I encountered 7 horses on the Novice trail trying to get their horses up and down the two long bridges and then around the small wooden banked turn on Novice. They completely disregarded any Common sense at all and continued to force the horses up and down the bridges with no regard to me and my pleading to get off the bike trails. I even showed them where to get off the trail and back onto the gravel. I  was ignored and chastised as they continued  on novice and intermediate trails. Then I pulled out the old camera phone and started recording. This too had no effect, they continued to do what they were doing, Tearing up Novice trail. They blatantly disregarded any and all attempts by me to re direct them to the gravel road.
We at Rangeline had an agreement with the Horse group that was brokered by Paul Arlinghouse.  This agreement was for the horses to stay on the gravel roads, fields and the trail that was specifically cut for the horses. The horsemen were to also provide signage.  Apparently this agreement is now Null and Void. They said they would ride where ever.
. ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!!!!!!

· Keep your weight back when going down anything remotely steep. You are less likely to Endo. If it’s really steep, lowering your seat is helpful and you should be far enough back of your seat that your seat is at chest level.

· When going over an obstacle, compress your fork first then pull up. Once your front tire is over throw your weight forward to unweight your back wheel.

· When climbing steeper hills slide forward on your seat to distribute your weight evenly over the bike. This helps keep your front wheel from popping up in the air and keeps you from putting all your weight on the back wheel, which causes you to lose control.

· When coasting always have your feet level (at the 3 and 9 o’ clock positions). You will be less likely to hit your pedal on something, which can throw you to the ground quickly.

· When going over bridges and narrow boards always look ahead to the other side and not down in front of your tire. Your bike will go where you are looking. Keep speed and spin fast.

· When trying switchbacks, try pumping your brakes rapidly when going around the corner. This helps you control the bike and maintains your balance. I find that standing slightly off the seat is helpful as well. Try leaning the bike into the corner as you remain upright.

· If you are having trouble maintaining traction on a climb try a harder gear. You will be less likely to spin out.

· Your front brake gives you most of your stopping power. Your rear brake gives you control.

· Your seat should be adjusted so that when you are on the bottom of your down stroke you should have a slight bend in your knee. The higher the seat the more extension you get from your legs. This is good for trails with a lot of climbing. The lower the seat the more control you have over your bike. This is good for technical trails.

· Momentum is your friend. It can get you over obstacles, carry you through mistakes, and helps you maintain your rhythm.

· Only stand up when you need to on climbs. Try to stay seated. If you need to stand – leaning forward over the bars will provide the most power, leaning back will provide the most traction – shift your weight according as the conditions change.

· When climbing steeper hills try zigzagging across the hill (side to side) if you start losing momentum. This helps keep your momentum and in essence makes the hill less steep.

· When approaching an obstacle or section of trail you’re not sure you can do, Ride it or Walk it! Do not second guess it. This is a sure fire way to get hurt.

· Always look where you want to go – not where you don’t. If you look into a ditch or at a tree next to the trail you’ll go there.

· Have confidence in what you are doing – if you prepare for failure you’ll almost certainly find it.\

· When approaching an uphill – down shift before you begin to climb, most drivetrains will not shift properly under a heavy load.

· When riding in sand or slippery conditions – distribute your weight evenly and maintain a good cadence (RPM), it’s the wheels turning that keeps you upright not the forward momentum of the bike.

For the HMBA Chainsawers!
If you own a Stihl? Look at this!!
 http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml12/12108.html#.Tz4ynpWKh10.facebook

During our vacation we decided to try out a few more Ohio trails.
These trails are within 3.5 to 4 hrs. If Indy.
1. Dillon State Park, Zanesville ,Oh. 26 miles
These trails Rock! Literaly. The trails are very well marked, you can't get lost or turned around here.
The red trails are excedingly difficult and rocky. The yellow trail is rocky,rooty and extreamly steep at times. With lots of bridges and elevated trail.
This is a MUST RIDE!
2. Mohican, Loudenville, Oh. 24 miles.
A little bit of everything, long and physicaly demanding. Well marked. Another must ride
3. Alum Creek, Columbus,Oh 14 miles
Phase 1 is now more technical than last time  we rode there, it is well ridden in and rooty as all Hell with a lot of in trail goodies. Phase 2 is now the easier of the two trails. Fast and flowing with some in trail features. A must ride if in the area.
4. Vultures Knob, Wooster, Oh. 7 miles
Simply put! This trail kicks ass!  Rangeline is child's play compared to this place. This place has some of the coolest bridges I have ever seen on a trail. Rite at the start is a very large Arch bridge at least 50 foot tall and 100 foot long. A cable suspended bridge 50 foot long and scary as all Hell and something I can only describe as a down the ravine over the creek and up the other side up jump. This place is NOT! for beginners, you must be adept at riding very technical trails & features.
Vultures Knob is privatly owned but open to the public 365 days. You must sighn a waiver and donate @ least $5 to ride. Currently there are several dedicated downhill runs being made. Can't wait for them to open.
Will post picts of the bridges and jump